Throughout lockdown one of things a lot of people missed was the ability to go and get their hair cut. It's a silly thing given what we've all been going through, but it's been something which has made people feel like they can't even control their own appearance.
Personally I've been cutting my own hair for a good few years now. I never enjoyed sitting in the hairdressers, no matter how much I liked my stylist, no matter how nicely my hair was cut, I just didn't enjoy the experience. My last trip to a hairdressers just sealed the deal, as I was left sitting with sopping wet hair, which was running down my back as the stylist went to consult on another patron's hair colouring needs. I left the salon with a haircut I really liked, but with not only my top soaked, but with my trousers and underwear also. I was cold, wet and miffed to say the least.
So now I cut my own hair, and my mums, and big sisters too. The little one won't allow me to touch her after childhood hair cutting trauma from one sister and teenage fringe cutting trauma via the other (me). Which is fine by me, she does a good job on her own and always volunteers to straighten up the back of mine.
Quarantine has made everyone feel a little more free to do certain things themselves, including their hair cuts and colours. And it's probably the only time I could walk into salon and not feel judged for my at home haircutting, because everyone's doing it!
But people also took to going to extremes. Some giving themselves the big chop, others gave themselves the fringe they'd always wondered about, mullet/shag styles made a come back, a shaven head was also popular, and lots of people started reaching for the hair bleach to embrace the money piece, split dye or full head of crazy colours...
Fortunately the box of bleach I have in my room, and the crazy colours I dyed my hair in uni, are so old I'd probably just burn all my hair off if I tried to use them. It was tempting and finding myself watching Tik Tok compilations of quarantine hair transformations didn't help. Nor did certain YouTubers and Instagrammers.
Therefore on what is - should have been - New Years Day's post, I'm going to look at some of the hair trends from 2020, but mostly it's just an excuse to post some pretty, somewhat doable hair colours, and seeing it's now a new year, start taunting myself with possibilities for 2021.
Carlie Roe Hairstylist
I'm going to start with what is probably one of the easiest way to get started with crazy colours and that's the money piece.
A money piece is a technique where lighter, brighter highlights are placed in the front face framing portion of the hair, primarily while using the balayage technique. Balayage meaning "to sweep" or "to paint" in French, it is a method of highlighting the hair to give a more natural sun-kissed look compared to an ombré which is more uniform. The money piece was given the name because it's supposed to make the hair and dye job look expensive.
However as with most things in 2020, the money piece isn't quite what it appears to be. Instead of a natural, beautifully highlighted and expensive look, we've gone right back to the 1990's and chunky highlights ala Ginger Spice.
All fashion trends resurface, it's inevitable, and hopefully when they do they're improved upon. Personally, I really like the modern take on the chunky 90's highlights, and adding the bright colours or split dying the pieces, as above by Carlie Roe Hairstylist, can look really interesting and, when you're scared of it, will reduce the amount of bleaching and potential damage you can do.
I originally saw this colour combo on Alanna Durkovich, which was created by Chris Weber Hair, and appears to have chunkier streaks:
Durkovich's was the inspiration for Roe, and both are a combination of mustardy yellow and rosy pink, which is one I wouldn't have thought of, but is actually very pretty, and it just shows that during lockdown people were taking inspiration from other creators whether that was done in a salon or at home.
Another options that has become popular is incorporating the under layer of the hair like Brad Mondo did on Charli D'Amelio...
Another for those of us who aren't blessed with blonde hair, are scared of bleach, are too timid to dye all their hair, or don't want/aren't allowed too (for work as an example), might like the trend for hidden hair colours.
Now the image may look like a bad example, but I chose this beautiful dye job by willow.grace.hair
on makeup artist Jessica McKenzie because I think it's absolutely gorgeous and I have always been a sucker for peach hair (my favourite point in my pink hair phase was when it had washed out and turned peachy). However if you suspend disbelief for a second, and you take the peach colour to be Jessica's natural hair colour, what she has is a hidden rainbow.
This is where a section of hair is dyed, in this case in rainbow colours, but the layer is sandwiched between two of the natural hair colour (peach), thus the hidden colour will always be covered by the top layer. This means when the hair is down it's barely visible, but depending on how you part or move it, you'll either get just a glimpse of your chosen colour, or be able to show your wild side to the world.
Again, because you don't have to dye your whole head, and the section can be relatively small, hidden colours might be a good way to experiment without committing to an in your face colour straight away. Caitlin Ford's video probably has the best explanation of the sectioning I've seen if you're looking to try.
... I've been obsessed with Ford's signature look for over a year now and while I don't think I could pull it off, over lockdown it's certainly been tempting to try. Plus Ford is really willing and actively teaching her followers some of her techniques when it comes to rainbow hair, in fact sharing her technique for her rainbow bangs was one of the first videos she uploaded to YouTube. Which given it is her signature look, and a lot of people would be proprietary about it, I love that she's so willing to share.
I just, I love the way it looks and that she makes a point of bleaching out as minimal an amount of hair as she can, because why potentially damage more than you need too, especially when you can still gets a beautifully intense amount of colour without it?
That said, the reason I'm including it in todays list, other than my obsession, is that back in April 2020, not long into lockdown, Ford was included in a viral Tik Tok video created by Brad Mondo and featuring many other stylists and creators, for Mondo's hair centric take on the Pass the Brush Challenge. This challenge in its original state has a makeup brush passed from one creator to another, starting in their natural state with no makeup, covering the camera briefly, then reappearing fully made up before passing the brush to the next person, then the next, however in Mondo's incarnation this was done with hair tools.
Ford's hair in her section of the video makes me what three things, a fringe, rainbow bangs and to know how she styles her hair in the messy bun and flicky fringe because given I spend 90% of my time with my hair in a bun, I need to know how to make it look better!
Really the perfect time to potentially ruin my hair with bleach would be before I give myself a hair cut. It would be sensible, if I ruined everything I just go a little shorter and if it worked I keep it a little longer. See, I can be logical.
Ironically this choice of hair colour comes from aka_Aislinn posting before and after images of her bleaching her roots in preparation for her next foray into rainbow colour:
But I really, really loved the pastel rainbow roots on Aislinn's hair as it had faded out. I don't even know how you could purposefully do a faded pastel rainbow root, and it would involve biting the bullet and going fully blonde... though you could go for a tradition or dark rainbow on dark hair, which would be cool.
Anyway, I thought her hair faded out really beautifully, so I looked for rainbow roots and pastel tips and of all the ones I found, I loved this one by Valerie Supczak the most because even though it was the tips of her models hair that were dyed and not the roots, it reminded me of Aislinn.
It would also be an easier open, would look gorgeous and for me, I've been talking about dying the tips of my hair since I was in high school!
In terms of commitment, split dying your hair has to be high up on the list. You need to decide if you're going to bleach half your head, or your whole head, then you have to pick your colours and of course the most important part, sectioning your hair neatly and confidently.
Maybe ask a friend for help with that last part. No one wants an uneven split dye.
,
Split dying has become incredibly popular and I think that's because of how graphic two tone hair looks. The chrome and coral split by Miriam Ortega from Art on Hair being a really good example of how to use pastels, but black and blonde is a classic (iconic Cruella de Vil) and I'm loving black and red, black and pink, black and most colours, but some combinations keep coming through stronger:
The last split dye ties in conveniently with the next and that's pink, purple, borderline golden in place, ombrés.
In 2014 singer Lily Allen turned up to Glastonbury with pink and purple hair, which I will freely admit I was obsessed with. Then a few weeks later she was photographed with a faded out version:
This is just what dyes do and I don't know which I prefer. But what I do know is that some series hair envy was created.
Cut to 2020 and the every changing hair of Stella Cini, who I'm not sure has had a hair colour longer than a month since I started following her.
This purple, pink, orange, coral ombré moment, was inspired by the work of Guy Tang, another YouTube hairstylist, but is incredibly similar to Lily Allen's and hasn't helped to stop me obsessing over this particular colour combination.
While pink and purple is a relatively common pairing for hair dying, I think it's the orange sunset overtone within both that I find really different and attractive, as well as how they fade so kindly.
This is probably one of my favourite hair colour combinations ever.
More Stella Cini, who is probably the main culprit for making me have itchy fingers for fancy hair colours.
Dying over faded out red - one of the hardest colours keep looking bright in the hair, but also one of the hardest to remove - followed by pink, Cini chose to dye over her faded ends with a bright blue rather than risk further damage by using colour removers or likely multiple rounds of bleaching. This left her with an ombrégoing from dark red down to blue, but needing to subsequently work to try and recondition her hair before attempting any kind of colour removal.
Cini, like many other channels, creates content around her frequent changes in hair colour, however this often leads to unintended content, primarily revolving around rescuing their damaged hair or the inevitable hair cuts that they giving themselves to remove it. And while she only had this colour for a month or so, I loved this colour combo, I think it was unique and one I wouldn't have thought of putting together, or looking this good.
Then again, Stella Cini is one of those girls who it doesn't matter what colour she applies to her hair, they inevitably look really good on her.
Stella Cini
This chameleon like quality is why Stella gets the last spot too, with her stupidly beautiful emerald green hair.
The green has become one Cini's most recognisable looks and has not only become heavily used within her on merchandising, but just prior to the New Year, she announced her first ever collaboration. Together with the brand, Silk or Lace, they creation of two hand dyed wigs, one in bubblegum pink, and the other in emerald green (though it is based on the first incarnation created by Cini, which was longer and has a bluer undertone), which is an incredible opportunity for the creator, but also another superb option for the bleach shy among us to try something new.
Over 2020 I've really enjoyed seeing how brave and adventurous people have been with their hair. A trend I dare say will continue, seeing numbers have gone up again and we're all back in lockdown at least until the end of January. If there was any time to experiment with your hair and not be scared about the consequences then it's now.
I am by no means saying go grab the scissors, or order in bleach, snip away and dye the hell out of your hair, but if you do, do your research, be careful and don't blame me for giving you ideas.
And if over the last ten months you've been able to embrace your greys, or your curls, learnt to cut and dye your own hair, or just enjoyed not having to wash and style it everyday because you're working from home, then maybe by this time next year you'll have bright green hair with a rainbow fringe.
Or maybe I will.
Happy New Year & Merry Christmas! Day nine tomorrow...
(Are we taking bets when I'll finish this year? Will I make it before the end of the month?)
In previous years, though I continue to call Day 5 "five gold rings", I've picked rings, bracelets, necklaces, earrings... basically this is my dedicated jewellery post within the 12 Days. However this year, I thought I'd choose a type of jewellery I've never posted about before, and one that is oh so fitting.
The 2020 pandemic has been caused by SARS-CoV-2, which we have come to know as COVID-19, an acronym for "coronavirus disease 2019" coined by World Health Organisation (WHO) in a bid to avoid creating stigmatism towards the virus's origins. Though someone might to remind soon to be ex-President Trump that...
Some wacko in China just released a statement blaming everybody other than China for the Virus which has now killed hundreds of thousands of people. Please explain to this dope that it was the “incompetence of China”, and nothing else, that did this mass Worldwide killing!
The W.H.O. really blew it. For some reason, funded largely by the United States, yet very China centric. We will be giving that a good look. Fortunately I rejected their advice on keeping our borders open to China early on. Why did they give us such a faulty recommendation?
... oh yeah... I forgot about Trump choosing to withdraw the United States from WHO... luckily for everyone even Twitter has started dinging Mr. Trump for spreading misinformation about the pandemic...
Flu season is coming up! Many people every year, sometimes over 100,000, and despite the Vaccine, die from the Flu. Are we going to close down our Country? No, we have learned to live with it, just like we are learning to live with Covid, in most populations far less lethal!!!
Anyway, enough of that, back to the etymology. While Covid-19 has its own origins, coronavirus itself is simply named after its appearance, and the crown of club shaped spikes that cover its surface.
Corona, coming from the Latin for crown or garland.
So that means in 2020 crowns, tiaras and headpieces are a logical subject.
First up is the Wildflower Headpiece by Wolf & Moon. A North London based company created by Hannah Davis, who specialise in laser-cut jewellery, using a combination of acrylic and birch wood (they also use brass, gold plated sterling silver, mother of pearl and stain and paint the wood depending on the designs but acrylic and bird appear in almost everything).
There's something silly and wonderfully whimsical about the headpieces that this brand creates and the wildflower option is not the only one. You could choose between flowers, lemons, mushrooms and past collections have features coral reefs, jungle leaves and queen of hearts inspired designs. These are statement pieces of jewellery, their not your tradition headband or tiara, they're fun. And if that's not what you're into, the brand have all your traditional jewellery in not only floral, natural designs by more architectural and geometric ones too.
I'm a little biased, I have (I think) three pairs of Wolf & Moon earrings, which I love, and while there is a more famous British based company you may know, who became iconic for their, silly and weird laser cut acrylic jewellery, I actually think that Wolf and Moon are the superior brand. Maybe their not as novel or cartoonish, but there are no poorly attached earring post, no cheap feeling chains or sharp edges. The pieces are beautifully hand finished, each engraved with their logo. Their packaging and branding is really attractive, and a handwritten thank you is added to each parcel - which if they continue to do as their company grows is a lovely touch. There is also a beautiful warmth and harmony between the acrylic and wood.
I'm not knocking the other brand. I love their designs, but the earrings I have fell to pieces and I had to glue them back together, and the necklace left scratches on my skin, pulled threads out of knitwear, and turned my skin green. I love the jewellery I have, and maybe I just got bad pieces, but for their cost, they should have been better quality.
Wolf & Moon is a brand I go back to time and again because they have good designs, good service and produce a good quality product and you don't often see jewellers making headwear, so these are pretty and fun.
While I have a board on Pinterest which is dedicated to jeweller for non-obvious parts of the body (anything head to toe that isn't traditionally recognisable as a pair of earrings, a necklace, brooch, cufflinks, or bracelet), searching for tiaras, crowns or headpieces resulted in a lot of wedding wear.
I actually understand this, searching for non-commercial, what I guess you'd term art jewellery is actually not the easiest. Often on Day 5 I search for "gold rings" and the results are a sea of jewellery you'd see in your average, high street, mass produced jeweller. Which is not what I'm looking for, and when it comes to jewellery headwear, the results were beaded tiaras for brides.
Some are very pretty, but even looking for historic jewellery in this category, it wasn't fruitful, unless it was atop the head of Kate Middleton or Meghan Markle. But that's almost certainly because when do you ever really get the opportunity to wear a tiara, unless you're getting married, happen to be a princess or are a kid?
My point is, in the sea of beads and princesses, I kept seeing these really simple, modern, yet architectural leaf like outlines, which instead of perching atop, embraced the back of the models head, and added a statement to the hair, without being traditional or cheap looking.
These designs - and this Back Leaf Tiara in particular - are by Lia Terni, a Miami based ethical jeweller who uses eco-gold, recycled brass and silver, ceramics and Swarovski crystals as the main materials within her designs. Not only is it great that she is trying to source ethical and recycled materials, but I just really like the shape, positioning and simplicity of her headpiece designs.
In terms of wearable designs on this post, this is certainly higher up there.
Maiko Takeda || "Atmospheric Reentry" || 2013 || Silver, Acrylic and Tinted Film || Photo by Bryan Huynh
I would say with this next design, wearability isn't really realistic for the everyday person. However headpieces by Maiko Takeda are a firm favourite on the runway for designers including Issey Miyake, they have been featured as a head dress for Effie Trinket (Elizabeth Banks) in The Hunger Games: Mockingjay Part 2, and are frequently been worn by the musician Björk.
"Atmospheric Reentry: Starting from the simple question of what it would feel like to wear a cloud, a series of sculptural head/body pieces blurs the boundaries around the wearer. Hundreds of spiky feather-like units fan out to achieve a density and lightness of form that surround the wearer in an brightly-coloured, luminescent aura."(Maiko Takeda)
These to me, even after all these years, I still find fascinating. Both in their construction and visual impact. And today, in a world where we're even more aware of the cloud that surrounds each of us and how far that stretches, the aura surrounding and emitting from the wearers is even more poignant.
It's also the headpiece on this list that looks most like Covid-19... just saying.
Jan Yager || Tiara of Useful Knowledge: City Flora Series || 2006 || Oxidised Sterling Silver with 18k & 14k Gold || Photo by Jack Ramsdale
The most "traditional" tiara on todays list is by mixed-media jeweller Jan Yager... and I love it, so much.
The tiara is the result of Yager's studying the plant life that exists in the area surrounding both her studio and home in Philadelphia, and her translation into of this flora into jewellery. It is modelled after an earlier incarnation called the American Tiara: Invasive Species (2001), which was the designers response to discovering that the weeds she was used to seeing growing in cracks in the sidewalk and vacant lots, and took to native to the USA, were in fact invasive species, pushing out and overgrowing the native flora.
The Tiara of Useful Knowledge (2006), instead of embracing what are invasive plants, instead focused on the ones which, while are often considered nuisance weeds, are in fact historically useful or significant. The tiara features ten species including: ragweed; a potato leaf; clover; crab grass; lamb's quarters; plantain; rye; prickly lettuce and a tobacco blossom (there's also an ant and a pebble representing animal and mineral).
The significance of these plants includes how Native Americans cultivated nearly 3,000 varieties of potato at time of the Spanish Conquest in 1535, but because very few species were brought back to Europe it resulted in a lack of biodiversity. Famously this led to the Great "Irish Potato" Famine (1845-1850) which between the dependency on potatoes within the country and lack of diversity in species which were resistant to potato blight, which lead to Irelands population falling by 20-25% due to death and emigration.
Lamb's Quarter's which is highly resistant to chemical herbicide, also produces a high yield of seed which are able to lie dormant for up to 40 years, and it is often one of the first plants to grow back when soil is disturbed, so in disasters such as Hurricane Katrina, it was reported to be among the first plants to return. The plant is also edible, which makes it even more useful.
Switch Grass grows plentifully in the North American prairies and since the 1980's research has been being done into using this plant as a source of renewable bio-energy, as well as in creation of bio-plastics.
Other plants are sources of food, shelter and enrichment, whereas the one flower, tobacco blossom, is there to represent the allure of a cash crop. Tobacco nets vast amounts of money to the tobacco industry but is not only detrimental to the health of its users, but highly addictive. It's a beautiful flower, which is used toxically.
The meaning behind Yagers tiara is not the only fascinating quality...
Jan Yager || Tiara of Useful Knowledge: City Flora Series (In Parts) || 2006 || Photo by Jack Ramsdale
There is a tradition in history for these pieces of to be transformative. Tiaras being carefully detached from the base headband and then they could be worn as a statement necklace, thus creating duel purpose to a seldom work item of jewellery. Yager's Tiara of Useful Knowledge deconstructs into twelve pieces, including: eight brooches, two stick pins, a tie tack and a pendant, thus making a piece of jeweller - the tiara - which most people would never find a reason to wear, incredible wearable.
Yager sketches cuttings of these plants, dissects them and glues the leaves to sheets of silver or gold, before carefully tracing their outlines with her saw and reassembling them in metal. She uses traditional methods, traditional concepts and imbues weeds with history and hidden meaning, while creating a beautiful of jewellery.
Elizabeth Lee || Digital Interlude: Blue Haze || 2016 || Digital Acetate, Ink and Sterling Silver
If Maiko Takeda's take on a crown is the embodiment of the corona virus visually, then Elizabeth Lee's design is the NHS and each and every mask wearer.
Lee's "Digital Interlude" collection was her interpretation of the digital veil that surrounds us and was made by colouring digital acetate in RGB (and CMYK) colours. She then cut individual hexagonal pixels into the surface to create an ethereal, iridescent aura around the wearer, which shimmer, blur and distort the wearer behind it.
"The series draws upon the term ‘bokeh’ – an aesthetic blurry quality rendered in a photographic display where parts of the image remain out of focus in response to light."
(Elizabeth Lee, Designboom, 2016)
This is illustrated by a brief video the designer posted to Instagram:
It's this beautiful, shimmering interference that I find really wonderful and intriguing about Lee's collection, and how she's taken a flat, relatively everyday material (acetate) and transformed it into something with movement and dimension.
But it's similarity to the face shields we're becoming more and more accustomed to seeing, is also incredibly apparent. It's a headband with an acetate sheet attached, shielding the face. And while practically, full of cut out holes, it would provide no safety between one person to another, it highlights the barrier between the wearer and everyone else. As well as how even with only part of your face covered, suddenly we're not as instantly able to recognise people, even those we know well, when confronted by them.